Women's Clothing and Footwear
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While the women of fur trade
officers dressed increasingly in the English style, in general,
mixed-blood women evolved a more practical costume. The "Canadian"
fashion, as the Nor'Westers called it, combined both white and Indian
features. The sketches by the Swiss colonist Peter Rindisbacher from the
1820s show the woman wearing high-waisted gowns with gathered but
shapeless skirts which reached almost to the ankle. The long sleeved
jacket-like bodice was very low cut and filled in a criss-crossed scarf
arrangement, apparently to facilitate the nursing of children. The
outfit was not complete without Indian "leggins", moccasins and usually
a blanket.
When fur traders arrived in Canada they would have encountered Native
women whose lifestyle, demeanour, customs, and dress were in total
contrast to European females. Native women bathed openly, nursed their
babies in public, dressed scantily in hot weather, and were accustomed
to a hard physically demanding lifestyle. They had a natural acceptance
of their bodies and their sexuality. In contrast, European high society
exacted upon its females rigid rules of conduct, expected womanly
pursuits, pure morality, and appropriate dress. A woman's clothing
clearly identified and displayed her class and position in society.
While some European men formed alliances with Native women as an act
of convenience and survival, other men made true commitments to their
Native or Métis wives and to their Métis offspring. For example, David
Thompson, explorer and geographer was married to Charolette Small, a
Métis woman for almost sixty years. Their first of thirteen children was
born at Rocky Mountain House. Wives of Hudson Bay Company officers and
their Métis children were often encouraged to adopt European customs and
fashions.
Women's fashion from the Romantic era (1820-1837) included elaborate
hats, low necklines, jewellery, ringlets and fancy updos, satins, jewel-colours
and many lacy frills. As the eighteenth century progressed, fathers who
wanted to prevent their daughters from living as Natives became involved
in their upbringing, which included importing calico and chintz
material, ribbons, lace, ornamental earring, brooches, and ladies'
magazines with pictures of fashionable European dresses.
The Romantic era was replaced by the Victorian era, which lasted from
Queen Victoria's accession to the throne of England in 1837 to her death
in 1901.Although fashion variations occurred during the Victorian era,
it is most clearly identified by flirty hats being replaced by bonnets
and full coverage of the body. A signature look given to uncovered hair
was to part it down the centre and wear it in a bun. High neck lines,
long sleeves, whalebone corsets, bustles, underskirts, and hoops or
caged crinolines mark this fashion era — an era that restricted overt
femininity and physical movement. The hoops were designed to mask a
woman's shape from her waist down. The rigid, puritanical look of
Victorian fashion became even more severe when Queen Victoria's beloved
husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861. She went into deep mourning and
wore predominately black for the rest of her life. As seen by the
following photographs, the queen's personal loss and her influence over
women's fashion translated across the Atlantic Ocean to Canada.
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